| Since every crawl space is
different we can only extend advice on this website for common problems and
questions with installing "conditioned crawl spaces". If you have questions that
are not covered here please feel free to call us or email us, you will find the
contact information on our "Contact Us" page.
Preparing the job-
As with any job, preparation plays a huge factor in the
quality of the final product. Crawl space encapsulation is no different. For the
most part this is going to be a difficult and unpleasant place to be for a few
days but if you commit to seeing it through you will be rewarded by not having
to go back down there except for maintenance on your home.
You will need a good pair of coveralls for everyone that works
in the crawl space. ALL sharp and organic (wood, paper etc.) objects need to
come out. If there is currently old plastic down there you can leave that and go
over it but every thing else comes out. Old school taught us to put fiberglass
insulation in the floor joist cavity to keep the house warm, today with a
conditioned crawl space this practice is no longer indorsed. Moisture gets
trapped inside the insulation, which makes it heavy and causes it to fall. It
also creates the condition for Mold growth. The only place that needs insulation
is around perimeter rim joist and/or the foundation walls, I will explain more about this a little later.
While you are in the crawl space cleaning it out take a look at the structure,
joists and beams to make sure they are in good shape. It would be wise to broom
the joists and subfloor before you install the DrySpace to remove old spider webs/nests and to get any loose dust or dirt
down. You will also need to brush off the block foundation so the Foundation
Seal Tape will bond properly.
Dry crawl spaces vs. wet crawl spaces-
Dry crawl spaces offer fewer obstacles that wet ones. But dry
crawls have their troubles too, most often the dirt is hard and uncomfortable to
move around on. The dust levels are going to be quite high so a good respirator
(not a dust mask) is required unless you want to cough up dirt for a week. For
obvious reasons it is not good for your health. Our customers report to us
regularly that there is not water in the crawl and never has been. The problem
with this information is the homeowner only looks down there once maybe twice a
year. There is a lot that can happen in a few months which includes water coming
and going. It is not uncommon for crawl spaces to be dry most of the time but in
the rain season they are under 12" of water. The object of conditioning your
crawl space is to do it right and do it once. So don't think because it does not
have water in it now it has never had water. There are some things you can look
for to tell you if there is a water problem. Look on the walls (usually at the
bottom) for a white powder, it looks like salt. This powder is lime that is used
in the making of the block. If you see it then you have some degree of water
problems. Look to other signs like water stains, wet block or areas in the crawl
space that are muddy. The bottom line is this, it will be easier and cheaper to
install a sump (and drain tile if needed) first than to have to go back and do
it after your crawl space floods. If it makes it any easier to decide you can
think of a sump as a drain in case a water line breaks or your washer overflows.
Installing a drain system-
If you determine that you do need or want a
sump there are a few things to consider. The first is where is the lowest point
in the crawl space and second where is the water going to once it leaves the
crawl space. Most often the water that gets into the crawl space comes from poor
drainage or poor grade. If you discharge the sump where the grade slopes back
toward the house the water will come back in, we call this "cycling the water"
and it is only good for the electric company. If your problem is poor drainage
then you may want to consult with a local water management company. If you are
polite and stroke their ego a little they will probably give you some free
advice (I know that works on me). If you have a lot of water you will want to
bury some drain tile (tubing) on the inside of the crawl space around the
foundation walls. The most common question I get when it comes to installing
drain tile is "Do you slope the tile down towards the sump?" The answer is NO!
Water finds its own level, water is what we use in our tools to tell us what is
level. If the tile is installed level (or very close to it) the water will drain
into the sump. If you dig the drain tile on a slope you will be to deep by the
time you get to the sump to tie it in properly. When you install the sump basin
dig the hole about 8" wider than the basin and set the basin with pea stone
around it.
This will keep the dirt out of the basin and save your pump from burning up. The
drain tile may need stone as well if the dirt is sandy or like top soil. Some
people (including us when the head height is less than 20") use tile with a sock
on it. This is a good option but the pea stone works much better. The only other
note I want to make is plan for putting a dedicated outlet for the sump. If you
are handy and feel comfortable doing this then you will save some money but if
you do not know what a dedicated outlet is then you should plan on calling an
electrician (have him out after the DrySpace
is in, he will charge you less).
Choosing a DrySpace
thickness-
Bigger is better, right? Well, not always. We
offer several different thicknesses of DrySpace
to accommodate different needs. The middle of the road 12 Mil is popular because
it is not the thinnest and it is not the thickest. The 8 Mil is more
than enough for simple moisture protection and it is the easiest to work with. The
16 & 20 Mil is recommended if you
have enough room and plan or would like to store items in the crawl space. It is
much more durable and will handle the "scooting" of totes much better. It really
comes down to your budget and the plans you have for the crawl space after it is
finished. If you never go down there and probably never will then the 8 Mil will
get the job done. On the other hand if you simply do not know what the plans are
for the crawl space or you just feel more comfortable with a thicker product you
may want to look at the 12 Mil. I personally like the 12 Mil the best because it
is easy to work with and has
a nice polished white surface. Ultimately you can not go wrong with any of our
products they are all top of the line.
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