From the time your home was built,
the crawl space has been treated as if it
were NOT part of the house.
It's time to change that! More install
advice HERE
The components to the Encapsulation process
-
-
-
-
-
5.4”
Perforated Drain Tile (pipe)
-
-
-
8.Drainage
stone (if necessary)
A Closer Look at the Encapsulation Material
-
1.DrySpace™
- This is the vapor barrier that will seal out the dirt,
odor & moisture
-
2.Foundation
Seal Tape – This tape is used on the foundation wall
to secure the DrySpace™. The walls have to be dry and
clean in order for this product to work properly
-
3.Waterproof
Seam Tape– This tape is used to seal the seams in
the DrySpace™
-
4.Foundation
Pins – This is the white plastic fastening pins used
to hold the DrySpace™ in place permanently
-
5.Drain
Tile – This is the tube (tile) that directs water to
the sump basin It is installed on the inside of the
crawlspace and is 4” in diameter and flexible.
-
6.Sump
pump – This is the Zoeller® model M-53 1/3 HP pump
that removes the water from the crawl space
-
7.Sump
basin – This is a Radon approve basin that captures
water from the drain tile as well as from the rising
ground water.
-
8.Drainage
stone – This is pea stone used to filter the dirt
out of the water before it reaches the sump basin. Use
drainage stone around the sump basin and around drain
tile.
Crawl Space Access
Head Height
Health Precautions
Crawl Space
Measurements
Water Control
Foundation Condition
Supports and
Obstructions
Crawl Space Access
-
The access to the crawl
space will determine a few of things:
-
1.Comfort
in getting in and out
-
2.Ease
or difficulty in getting the material
into the crawl space
-
3.If
outside, the amount of dirt/mud that
will end up on top of the DrySpace™
after install
-
4.If
inside, the amount of dirt/mud that will
end up in your home if not properly
protected
Head Height
-
1.Obviously
this is an important factor in
the ease of the job
-
2.If
the height is less than 18” your
job will be extremely difficult
if not impossible
-
3.Beware
of heat ducts, they have sharp
edges
-
4.The
lower the head height the more
physically demanding
your job will be
Health & Safety Precautions
-
1.Wear
a good quality respirator, this will be
uncomfortable but will protect your
lungs from dust, mold spores and
bacteria in the air
-
2.Do
not work in standing water, it could be
contaminated and make you sick
-
3.Be
cautious not to over heat if installing
in the summer – Drink lots of water
-
Keep a look out for electrical wires lying
on the ground - If they are bare then you
may want to call an electrician
Foundation
Conditions
-
1.Check
the foundation to see if there is a
white powder on it – this indicates
water problems
-
2.Check
for large cracks or broken areas,
you will need to fix this FIRST.
-
3.Check
the foundation for water, wet areas
or condensation, you may have to
drill holes to release any water. If
this is present you will need a
drain system.
Supports and Obstructions
-
1.Take
a look around the crawl space
for water tanks, a furnace or
other objects that need to be
worked around. Take pictures of
these and we can help guide you
with how to handle them.
-
2.The
supports that hold up your home,
these will need to be worked
around as well.
Insulation
-
1.Wet
insulation must come out
-
2.If
you have an odor problem
then the existing
insulation must come out
-
3.It
is best that there is no
insulation in the floor
joist cavity after you
close your crawl space-
this will help your home
“breath” easier and keep
your floors warmer
-
4.Insulate
at the rim (or band)
joist only with new
insulation
-
Check your local energy code
for the most accurate
information about insulating
a craw space in your state
Vents
-
1.To
completely
control the
moisture in the
crawl space the
vents MUST be
closed
-
2.A
8” x 16”
concrete block
(can be
purchased at the
local home
center) will fit
nicely into the
vent cavity. Use
a concrete caulk
to seal the
edges of the
block
-
3.If
that is not an
option you can
use ridged foam
insulation to
seal the vent
from the inside.
-
4.If
you are having
rodent problems
the ridged foam
will not keep
them out.
Water Control
1.Have
you ever had
water in
your crawl
space?
Unless you
look in your
crawl at
least twice
a week,
every week
you can not
be accurate
in answering
this
question. It
is safer,
easier and
cheaper to
add a drain
system
BEFORE the
encapsulation.
You don’t
want to find
out there is
a problem
once you
have a
swimming
pool under
all of your
hard work.
Crawl Space
Measurements
-
1.Take
accurate
measurements,
this
will
save you
a
monetary
heartache
later
-
2.You
will
need the
length
of
ALL
the
walls,
do not
estimate
-
3.You
will
need the
height
of all
the
walls or
the
height
of the
tallest
wall
-
4.You
will
need to
know how
many
supports
there
are and
how far
from the
walls
-
5.You
will
need to
know how
many
vents
you have
Tools
Needed
-
-
2.Utility Knife with many new blades (10 or 25)
-
-
-
5.Socket set-sump basin lid
-
6.Hammer Drill – Foundation Pins
-
-
-
9.Reciprocating saw – cut PVC for sump
-
10.Hammer - to tap in Foundation Pins
-
11.Hole saw 2”-plumbing sump outside -- make sure you caulk both sides of the hole if exiting the rim joist
-
12.PVC glue –NOT CPVC glue they’re different so make sure you check
-
-
14.Wire hangers or Zip ties for cables and phone lines that hang down or touch the ground
-
-
Most jobs for a beginner will take about two days to complete depending on how many people are helping.
Remember, if you are located in the Michigan, Northern Ohio or Northern Indiana area we offer onsite assistance to help you complete your project.
Give us a call 877 379 7658
CrawlSpace Concepts
Solutions that work!
|